Vet Blog
06/30/08
I have a three-year-old Lab who limps quite
frequently, and the pain seems to be in his front
leg or paw. It is most evident when he is
walking downstairs. I have mentioned this to my
vet repeatedly and he says it could be muscle
strain and to not walk him for a few days. That
doesn’t help. I have him on chondroitin but to
no avail. This is continual. What can I do to
get this diagnosed properly? Do you suggest an
MRI?
Thank you!
Val
Newtown Square, PA
Soft tissue trauma (muscle strain or a mildly injured joint) is the most common cause of limping in young dogs. This sort of injury usually is caused by rough play, over-exertion, or landing incorrectly after jumping.
Limping caused by soft tissue trauma generally improves after a few days of rest. I have seen cases in which dogs were not rested properly. This can lead to recurrent injuries and chronic limping.
However, it sounds like you have rested your dog appropriately on more than one occasion. I have a hunch that something else is going on.
Young, large-breed dogs such as Labrador Retrievers may suffer from a number of different problems that can cause chronic limping. Syndromes that may be contributing to your dog’s limping include elbow dysplasia and cartilage defects in the elbow, wrist or shoulder. He may have suffered significant trauma to a joint early in life that has resulted in arthritis. As well, several other less common causes could be causing the problem.
I recommend that you have a vet perform a very thorough evaluation of the affected leg. He or she will check for swelling, pain, joint laxity, and other symptoms that can help identify which area of the leg is affected. If your dog exercises heavily just before the exam, the problem spot may be easier to identify.
Once the problem has been localized to a specific area, the next step is to take X-rays of the area. (If the problem can’t be localized, consider taking X-rays of all of the joints in the limb.) In most cases X-rays provide a definitive diagnosis. This, in turn, will allow you to treat the problem appropriately.
There are instances in which X-rays do not lead to a diagnosis. In these cases, the next step is arthroscopy or advanced diagnostic imaging (CT or MRI). However, I recommend that that you start with simple tests and work your way up if necessary.
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/29/08
I would like to thank Amanda of Environmental Working Group for alerting me to a report that her organization recently released. An excerpt from the report is below.
High Levels of Toxic Industrial Chemicals Contaminate Cats And Dogs
. . . In the first study of its kind, Environmental Working Group found that American pets are polluted with even higher levels of many of the same synthetic industrial chemicals that researchers have recently found in people, including newborns.
The results show that America’s pets are serving as involuntary sentinels of the widespread chemical contamination that scientists increasingly link to a growing array of health problems across a wide range of animals—wild, domesticated and human.
I recommend that you read the report. The findings are disturbing. For instance, consider the following.
Dogs and cats were contaminated with 48 of 70 industrial chemicals tested, including 43 chemicals at levels higher than those typically found in people, according to our study of plastics and food packaging chemicals, heavy metals, fire retardants, and stain-proofing chemicals in pooled samples of blood and urine from 20 dogs and 37 cats collected at a Virginia veterinary clinic.
Diseases such as cancer and hyperthyroidism are becoming more prevalent in pets. Part of the increase in prevalence can be explained by the longer life expectancies that pets currently enjoy. Cancer, in particular, is more likely to strike when animals are older.
However, the bodily effects of many chemicals listed in the study are not fully understood. In my mind, it is very likely that chemical body burden is playing a role in these disease processes.
Environmental Working Group has launched a campaign to raise awareness about this issue. You can view the campaign’s website by clicking here. The campaign’s spokesdog, Eddie, has a good blog. He also has a profile on Dogster.
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/28/08
I have a sweet but sensitive Bichon/Terrier mix
who has gone through a lot of change in the past
year. He had a brief stint in an animal shelter
and then got a brand new neighbourhood, family and
owner (me!).
We will be moving to a new home in the upcoming
weeks and I would like to make things easier for
him. Do you have any tips on how to make
moving easier for my dog?
Sarah
Toronto
There is no doubt about it. Moving is stressful. This is true for pets, just as it is true for people.
Pets generally are creatures of habit. They tend to be most comfortable in stable environments and they usually enjoy predictable routines (although a surprise trip to the park or beach rarely seems to bother most of the dogs I know). Moving houses upsets that stability.
First, take heart from the fact that your dog has already gone through quite a few big changes in his life. It sounds like he was able to tolerate those changes and remain well-adjusted. That bodes well for the future.
I have two recommendations for easing your dog’s transition to the new house. First, try to maintain as many of your normal routines (regular walks, feeding times, belly rubs and so forth) as possible during the move. He will suffer less stress if fewer elements of his life are disrupted.
Second, and this is easier said than done, you should try not to get stressed out during the move. Dogs make wonderful companions in part because they are highly attuned to human emotions. If you are distressed or nervous, your dog will pick up on it. And he probably will become stressed out as well.
Dogs are highly adaptable creatures. I’m sure it won’t be long until he settles in and becomes comfortable in his new home.
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/27/08
My cat has been sneezing and wheezing
when he is resting. He is eating and drinking
normally and I have been giving him antibiotic
shots for about two weeks but he doesn’t
seem to be improving.
My vet has said he has an
inflamed gum and he recommends the removal of
a canine tooth. However, Baxter is not
experiencing pain on either side of his mouth, at
least when I apply pressure.
I would really like to avoid the trauma of a tooth
removal. Should I get the vet to do x-rays of the nose
and mouth? Other suggestions?
Thanks, Diane and Baxter
Washington, DC
Several different problems can lead to sneezing and wheezing in cats. Sinus infections, allergies, viruses and foreign objects or growths in the nose are some of the most common culprits.
In Baxter’s case, I am wondering whether the inflamed tooth and the nasal symptoms may be related. The roots of the upper canine teeth lie very close to the nasal passages. If a canine tooth root becomes infected, it can cause a chronic sinus infection.
Although Baxter’s tooth does not seem to hurt him, inflamed or infected teeth and gums generally do cause pain. Some cats are very stoic, and do not show signs of dental pain. There is a chance that the tooth is hurting him even though he doesn’t act like it.
I think that taking X-rays of the tooth and the surrounding area is an excellent idea. X-rays will help to determine how severely damaged the tooth is, and whether it is contributing to Baxter’s wheezing and sneezing. This will help you and your vet make an informed decision about extraction of the tooth.
Be aware that if the tooth is not playing a role in Baxter’s troubles, the path ahead could be frustrating. Diagnosing chronic sinus problems often involves complex and expensive tests such as CT scanning, rhinoscopy (using a special instrument to visually examine the interior areas of the nose and sinuses) and biopsy.
Photo credit: Pascua Theus. Photo licensing information: click here.
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/26/08
I have spent several nights over the last few weeks working at a veterinary emergency hospital near San Francisco. We see an incredible range of cases, but during my last two shifts in particular I treated a huge number of dogs for exposure to toxic substances.
There are literally thousands of household products, plants, foods, human medications and chemicals that are poisonous to dogs and cats. To view two (non-comprehensive) lists of potential poisons, click here (for household products) and here (for plants).
Despite the huge number of hazardous plants and materials out there, I have noticed that three of them seem to be more commonly ingested by pets than the others. So, although I encourage you to be proactive about protecting your pet from all potential poisons, please be especially aware of these three.
Chocolate. Toxicity depends on the size of the pet, the type of chocolate consumed (darker chocolate is more dangerous than lighter chocolate), and the amount of chocolate that is eaten. Severe intoxication with chocolate can lead to irregular heart rhythms and death. Many dogs seem to find chocolate just as delicious as we humans do. Sadly, for dogs chocolate can be much worse than a guilty pleasure.
Rat and mouse poisons (rodenticides). Even small amounts of rodenticide can be deadly to cats and dogs. The most commonly used rodenticides cause internal bleeding. There is an antidote, but it must be administered rapidly to prevent severe illness or death.
Chewing gum. This is a relatively new player in the world of pet poisons. Not all chewing gum is toxic. However, several popular brands contain a sweetener called xylitol. Xylitol can cause dangerously low blood sugar in dogs. It also has been linked to liver damage.
I recommend that pets never be allowed access to any poisons. However, please be especially careful with the three listed above. Dogs are more likely than cats to be exposed to each of these poisons because they are less selective about what they eat.
If you suspect that your pet has consumed any poisonous product, contact a veterinarian immediately. Acting quickly can help to prevent serious consequences.
If possible, always bring the packaging from the product that was consumed, as well as any remaining product to the veterinarian’s office when you seek treatment. This will help the vet to positively identify the type and amount of toxin consumed.
Remember, however, that the best way to keep your pet safe from poisons is to make sure he or she does not have access to them in the first place.
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/25/08
I haven’t defleaed my adult female cat for eight
months because she reacted the last time by
excessive scratching that went on for several
days. I am concerned she may be allergic to the
flea med. She is an indoor cat and I haven’t
seen fleas around. Should I take her for a check
up and see what the vet recommends?
Carol
Eureka CA
I spend a lot of time on this blog harping about the importance of flea prevention. Fleas carry a number of animal and human diseases (such as tapeworms and bubonic plague, respectively). In pets, fleas contribute to skin rashes, ear infections and itching anywhere on the body. They have been implicated in syndromes, such as feline asthma, that are caused by an overactive immune system.
I often see pets with skin problems and recommend flea control as the first step. I can’t count the number of times that recommendation has been met with the following comment: “But my pet doesn’t have fleas!”
In these cases I recommend flea control nonetheless, because even an occasional flea bite can trigger skin or ear problems in a sensitive individual.
But the situation is different in your case, Carol. First, you don’t mention that your cat is experiencing any skin, ear, or other problems. And you have reason to believe that she has reacted adversely to a flea preventative in the past. Such reactions are rare, but they do occur.
In your cat’s case, I don’t think flea prevention is mandatory.
However, if your cat develops any of the problems I have listed above, or if you see any fleas or their feces, it will be time for a trip to the vet to discuss alternative flea control products.
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/24/08
My dog has very thin blonde hair. She now has
really dark spots on her skin (some small- some
large) and she is losing her hair. They are not
sores - just dark spots. She still acts like she
feels fine and is still very hyper. Could this be
allergies or a skin rash?
Diana
Sachse, Texas
You don’t mention your dog’s age. If she is older, I suspect that the dark spots are natural pigmentary changes. In people, these are known as liver spots.
It is quite common for dogs to develop liver spots as they mature. The are dark and irregular in shape. They do not itch or hurt, and they are harmless. In thin-coated dogs, they can be seen through the fur. In dogs with thicker coats, they may be invisible unless the hair above them is trimmed.
In people, liver spots are occasionally a precursor to skin cancer. This happens less often in dogs.
One thing that is not normal, however, is for hair to fall out above a liver spot. You mention that your dog is losing hair. Is she going bald over the areas in question?
Given your dog’s hair loss, the safest option is a trip to the vet. He or she should be able to determine whether there is anything to worry about.
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/23/08
Last Friday was Take Your Dog to Work Day in the United States. The event is designed to showcase the benefits that workers and workplaces can derive from the presence of well-behaved pets in the office.
An article on MSN about last year’s event pointed out some of the advantages of having furry friends at work.
[M]ore companies are looking into dog-friendly policies because they improve staff morale and camaraderie and encourage employees to work longer hours. “People will stay longer if they don’t have to leave to let their dog out,” [the co-founder of dogfriendly.com] said.
As a pet lover, I agree that having a dog (or cat) at work makes the day go better. Fortunately for me, pets are quite common at veterinary hospitals!
Although dog lovers won’t need to be convinced that Take Your Dog to Work Day is a great idea, it is important to remember that some people are allergic to or afraid of dogs. Dogs that go to work should be calm, free of parasites, and well controlled.
You can click on the link in the first paragraph for more information about the event. 2009’s Take Your Dog to Work Day is only a year away!
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/22/08
My vet recently decided not to give out
prescriptions for online pet med services. He
claims they use “old” medications which can be
harmful. I wonder if he is more interested in
making a profit for himself off the meds than
giving a break to his patients. How can an online
supplier consciously sell old meds?
S H
Chicago, IL
My vet says that ordering from a well-known internet pharmacy is a
bad idea because you don’t know what you’re
getting. Is it really a bad source to order from,
or is the vet not wanting to lose money? Thanks so
much!!
Alison
Muscatine, IA
Veterinarians and online pharmacies have had a rocky relationship from the start.
When online pharmacies first started selling medicines, many vets were worried that their already slim profit margins (even though vet care is expensive, most of what you pay your vet ends up going to his suppliers, his landlord, his employees, utility companies, the IRS, and regulatory agencies) would be reduced by the loss of income-generating drug sales.
This concern has not panned out as expected. Well-managed veterinary hospitals do not derive much income from drug sales. In the hospitals where I have worked, medications were offered to clients more for their convenience than for our profit. And this makes sense. A veterinarian’s job is to manage the health of pets, not to sell drugs.
So why is there a lingering animosity between vets and online pharmacies?
To my knowledge, none of my patients has ever received an expired or ineffective medicine from an online pharmacy. But I have had conversations with representatives from drug manufacturing companies who assure me that this does happen. They also claim that some online pharmacies unwittingly distribute counterfeit medications that have no efficacy.
In my opinion, if you order from a reputable online pharmacy the odds of receiving expired or counterfeit medicines are low. Most of the drugs that I have seen dispensed from these pharmacies are perfectly fine.
However, I still have a bone or two to pick with many of the internet pharmacies. Working with them can be very frustrating.
For instance, one internet pharmacy habitually refuses to write instructions on the drugs it dispenses. If I send a prescription to the pharmacy and indicate that the medicine should be taken twice daily, they will dispense the medicine with instructions to “take as instructed by veterinarian”. In the best case, this wastes my time–clients call me to ask how often the medicine should be given, when I have already provided that information to the pharmacy. In the worst case, it puts my patients at risk of overdose (for instance, if the client for some reason believes the medicine should be given four times daily).
Another pharmacy routinely sends faxes to my office requesting authorization for prescriptions. I promptly fax back authorizations. The next day, I often receive faxes from the pharmacy, written in a somewhat threatening tone, stating that they have not received my authorization. This confusion on the part of the pharmacy is very annoying, and it also causes me to lose confidence in their business in general. If they can’t manage their fax system, how can I expect them to dispense drugs accurately?
To give the internet pharmacies credit, I have been experiencing these sorts of problems less often over the last year. Nonetheless, I still find working with some online pharmacies to be quite inconvenient.
See related Vet Blog entries:
06/21/08
Hi,
We have a new Boston Terrier pup (9 weeks) who
tested positive for coccidia but has no symptoms
yet. Our vet has prescribed a 7 day course of
Albon. However, some other people have told me
that she needs a 28 day treatment regimen. Do you
think that this is necessary or should I just do
the 7 day treatment and follow up with the vet
next month (we see her for vaccines then)?
Also- could my cat catch this from my puppy?
Thanks!
Beth
Stoneham, MA
Coccidia are microscopic parasites that are incredibly common in puppies and kittens. Some animals can tolerate Coccidia infestations without showing any symptoms. Others develop diarrhea. In severely afflicted young pets, profuse diarrhea can lead to dehydration, failure to grow and severe illness.
Sadly, there is no perfect treatment for Coccidia. Albon is used to arrest the reproduction of the organisms within the intestinal tract. However, in the long run it is up to the pet’s immune system to tackle and eliminate the parasites.
Because every pet’s immune system is unique, some pets need to take Albon longer than others. I have known some puppies and kittens who had to take it for a month or more before they were cured. I have known others who cleared the parasite on their own, without any medication whatsoever.
Since your puppy isn’t showing symptoms, I think it is reasonable to start with a less aggressive treatment plan. It sounds like her immune system is already fighting the Coccidia. I’d recommend that you complete the seven day course of Albon. Have her stool tested after the medicine runs out. If parasites are still present, your vet can prescribe more medicine.
If your cat is an adult, it is extremely unlikely that the parasites will spread to her. Adult animals with fully-developed immune systems almost never contract Coccidia.
See related Vet Blog entries:
|
|
|